twinutero

Cape Town seems very child-friendly. Good thing for us. With three children under four years old, places that aren’t oriented toward children are all work and no fun. There are lots of web sites for tourists and residents listing local attractions for families. Here’s my list, from the point of view of an ex-pat-with-multiples. I will try to update each week or so, as we get to know the area.

1. Two Oceans Aquarium. Located at the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront. We had a bit of trouble finding the aquarium and ended up wandering around too many shops. The kids were bored, hot and hungry by the time we arrived, so we went straight to the cafe. Jon fell asleep while Alex and Thomas explored the indoor playroom just off the cafe. That, and the seals lolling in the sun outside, kept them busy until lunch. The food was good and the cafe had enough booster seats and highchairs for an entire nursery school. The aquarium itself deserves its “world-class” description. Highlights for us were the clown fish tank, the penguins, the rock lobsters and of course, the shark.

2. Cape Point. The very tip of Africa, a beautiful nature reserve, and a place you can’t really miss. It’s a half to a full hour’s drive from Cape Town (depending where you start). The trip itself is spectacular, although probably not terribly exciting for young children immobilized in their car seats. We drove straight to the point but found the hike up to the lighthouse too long for two-year-olds, and too busy for us. Instead, we found a quiet section of beach and had lunch. The reserve is famous for troops of baboons. We were lucky enough to see them – from the car. Many warnings advise visitors not to harass the baboons as they can get aggressive, and sure enough, tourists from the cars in front of us were being chased around and through their cars by an angry alpha male.

3. Giraffe House. This is not a zoo - it’s a “wildlife awareness center”. The difference may not be immediately apparent but I got good vibes from this place and I never have from a zoo. It’s new, and not very impressive from the roadside, but it’s worth a visit. We were entertained by several obedient birds - a parrot, a vulture, an owl, a stork - as well as camels, zebras, various boks and the requisite giraffes. Near Stellenbosch. Bring a stroller, snacks and lots of sunscreen.

4. Spier Winery. A wine estate just outside Stellenbosch with almost every possible attraction. We ventured only as far as the picnic grounds, duck pond and deli. As a private estate, they require you to buy your picnic on site, rather than bring it from home. Seems a bit odd coming from Ottawa, where public green spaces are plentiful. But according to our South African hosts, these kind of private areas are becoming the new public parks – they’re safer and they’re funded by users. So, for the price of a roll, some cheese and bottle of water, the picnic area, playground, craft market, art exhibit and lots of other diversions are open. The grounds were well used, but not crowded, on the Saturday afternoon that we visited. The wine estate is “fair- tourism” approved.

5. Tygerberg Zoo. Exit 39 off the N1 heading to Paarl. Easy to find. I was hesitant to bring the kids to an actual “zoo”. I pictured tiny cages and very unhappy animals. But it seems most of the animals here have ample room, with the notable exception of the lions. Lots of birds, reptiles, primates, and smaller, child-friendly farm animals. There’s also a playground. Bring a stroller (preferably with good wheels) and don’t rely on the “tea room” for snacks. Otherwise, worth a visit. Entry fees are a bit steep: R50 for adults and R30 for kids over 2.

6. The local. An innovation that I have yet to encounter in Canada: restaurants and pubs with playgrounds. McDonald’s playland doesn’t count. I’m talking about cafes with real food and decent outdoor play structures so that even parents like us, with two toddlers and a preschooler, can sit semi-relaxed and eat. We haven’t actually been to a pub (in over three years, actually), but we’ve seen them in the neighborhood – with outdoor patios and fenced-in playgrounds. Not that drinking and child-minding are best done together, but one could imagine getting together with friends (who also have children), and having a glass of beer while the kids play. It could happen.

7. The beach. Of course. But which beach? Cape Town is surrounded by beaches but some are crowded, some are windy, some have anti-toddler waves and surf. We were told of a child-friendly beach on the west coast in Blouberg. It’s called Small Bay - it’s next to Big Bay, a popular surfing spot. Small Bay is protected from the wind and waves and has lots of tidal pools for the kids to explore. Further north along the Atlantic coast is the town and beach of Melkbos. Beautiful open sands and a growing beach community but windy. Best to go in spring or fall when the Cape winds aren’t blustery.

8. Butterfly World. About 45 minutes northeast of Cape Town off the N1 – easy to find. An indoor atrium filled with free-flying butterflies of all sizes and stripes. Also home to roaming marmosets and iguanas, and caged spiders, snakes and various unattractive bugs. You have to pay to enter the atrium – it’s worth it. The outside area – cafe, slightly tacky gift shop, duck pond and goat farm – are free.

9. Penguin colony at Boulders Beach. Easy to find from Simon’s Town - just follow signs with a penguin icon. This is a natural colony of African penguins, not a zoo. Penguins can be viewed close-up from the boardwalk at the sanctuary. Admission fees are modest (R15 or $2) and are used to help conserve the colony. Boardwalks are wide and smooth enough for strollers and toddlers, but the entrance is a 5-10 minute walk from the parking lot. Well worth a visit.

10. Rondevlei Nature Reserve. Located near Muizenberg on False Bay, fifteen minutes drive south of Cape Town center. Wetlands with dry, winding paths, lookout towers, bird-viewing huts, a small aquarium and museum. Apparently home to hundreds of bird species, rare plants and hippopotami. Our family was so loud crashing through the paths and up the towers that we saw little wildlife. Still, a beautiful place to visit. Paths are wide enough for strollers. Easy for children to get lost - so keep a close eye on them! Open everyday except Christmas. Entrance fees modest.

11. Planetarium. Located in the heart of Cape Town, the planetarium is actually a domed auditorium showing films of interest to kids from preschool to teens. It’s a popular outing for school groups, so it can get crowded. It’s also very dark, so keep close to small children. The films are worth it however - educational and fun, though possibly scary for kids under 3. Good to know: entrance is locked once the show begins, so check your watch before you dash out to the washroom. The planetarium easy to find but parking is limited and surrounding streets are busy and narrow.