Cape Town seems very child-friendly. Good thing for us. With three children under four years old, places that aren’t oriented toward children are all work and no fun. There are lots of web sites for tourists and residents listing local attractions for families. Here’s my list, from the point of view of an expat-with-multiples (updated periodically).
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Located at the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront. We had a bit of trouble finding the aquarium and ended up wandering around too many shops. The kids were bored, hot and hungry by the time we arrived, so we went straight to the cafe. Jon fell asleep while Alex and Thomas explored the indoor playroom just off the cafe. That, and the seals lolling in the sun outside, kept them busy until lunch. The food was good and the cafe had enough booster seats and highchairs for an entire nursery school. The aquarium itself deserves its “world-class” description. Highlights for us were the clown fish tank, the penguins, the rock lobsters and of course, the shark.
CAPE POINT
The very tip of Africa, a beautiful nature reserve, and a place you can’t really miss. It’s a half to a full hour’s drive from Cape Town (depending where you start). The trip itself is spectacular, although probably not terribly exciting for young children immobilized in their car seats. We drove straight to the point but found the hike up to the lighthouse too long for two-year-olds, and too busy for us. Instead, we found a quiet section of beach and had lunch. The reserve is famous for troops of baboons. We were lucky enough to see them – from the car. Many warnings advise visitors not to harass the baboons as they can get aggressive, and sure enough, tourists from the cars in front of us were being chased around and through their cars by an angry alpha male.
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This is not a zoo – it’s a “wildlife awareness center”. The difference may not be immediately apparent but I got good vibes from this place and I never have from a zoo. It’s new, and not very impressive from the roadside, but it’s worth a visit. We were entertained by several obedient birds – a parrot, a vulture, an owl, a stork – as well as camels, zebras, various boks and the requisite giraffes. Near Stellenbosch. Bring a stroller, snacks and lots of sunscreen.
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WINERIES
The Western Cape is wine country and there are hundreds of wineries to visit within a hour’s radius of the city. Not all wineries are inviting for children however. If there are no play structures, no picnic grounds, no kid-friendly food, chances are that the proprietors would rather you leave the kiddies behind. But there are notable exceptions. Here are some child-friendly wineries we have discovered (and we’re still looking!):
Spier Winery (Stellenbosch). Has almost every possible attraction, including picnic grounds, a deli, duck pond, cheetah sanctuary, and a play structure.
Meerendal (Durbanville). Okay food and a play structure that can be viewed while sipping wine on the back deck.
Nitida (Durbanville). Family-oriented Sunday brunch and picnics, as well as a playground. Very nice wine too!
Rhebokskloof (Paarl). My favorite so far. Lovely surroundings and delicious picnic baskets – in adult and kiddie sizes. Good play structure and lots of room for running.
Groot Constantia (Constantia). We haven’t actually been here yet, but it was recommended by friends as a child-friendly, although very busy, winery.
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TYGERBERG ZOO
Exit 39 off the N1 heading to Paarl. Easy to find. I was hesitant to bring the kids to an actual “zoo”. I pictured tiny cages and very unhappy animals. But it seems most of the animals here have ample room, with the notable exception of the lions. Lots of birds, reptiles, primates, and smaller, child-friendly farm animals. There’s also a playground. Bring a stroller (preferably with good wheels) and don’t rely on the “tea room” for snacks. Otherwise, worth a visit. Entry fees are a bit steep: R50 for adults and R30 for kids over 2.
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THE LOCAL
An innovation that I have yet to encounter in Canada: restaurants and pubs with playgrounds. McDonald’s playland doesn’t count. I’m talking about cafes with real food and decent outdoor play structures so that even parents like us, with two toddlers and a preschooler, can sit semi-relaxed and eat. We haven’t actually been to a pub (in over three years, actually), but we’ve seen them in the neighborhood – with outdoor patios and fenced-in playgrounds. Not that drinking and child-minding are best done together, but one could imagine getting together with friends (who also have children), and having a glass of beer while the kids play. It could happen.
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THE BEACH
Of course. But which beach? Cape Town is surrounded by beaches but some are crowded, some are windy, some have anti-toddler waves and surf. Here are some we have tried so far:
Small Bay. Located next to Big Bay on the west coast in Blouberg. Protected from the wind and waves. Tidal pools and playground. Monitored parking. Postcard shots of Table Mountain.
Melkbos. Also on the west coast. Beautiful open sands and a growing beach community but windy. Best to go in spring or fall when the Cape winds aren’t so blustery.
Danger Beach. On the False Bay side of Cape Town in St. James. Reputed to have a heavy undertow but good for wading. More tranquil than touristy beaches and has the added diversion of commuter trains running 8 feet above your head. Good rock-hopping and tidal pools.
Long Beach. A stunning stretch of open sand and mountain views in Kommetjie south of Cape Town. We have been there only once and were almost flattened by the wind. Kids were not impressed. Better in spring or autumn?
Hout Bay Beach. In Hout Bay, of course. Lots of parking and spectacular views. Seems popular with kids and families – large groups of kids were learning to body surf and playing beach volleyball when we were there. But, again, windy and no shade.
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About 45 minutes northeast of Cape Town off the N1 – easy to find. An indoor atrium filled with free-flying butterflies of all sizes and stripes. Also home to roaming marmosets and iguanas, and caged spiders, snakes and various unattractive bugs. You have to pay to enter the atrium – it’s worth it. The outside area – cafe, slightly tacky gift shop, duck pond and goat farm – are free.
Easy to find from Simon’s Town – just follow signs with a penguin icon. This is a natural colony of African penguins, not a zoo. Penguins can be viewed close-up from the boardwalk at the sanctuary. Admission fees are modest (R15 or $2) and are used to help conserve the colony. Boardwalks are wide and smooth enough for strollers and toddlers, but the entrance is a 5-10 minute walk from the parking lot. Well worth a visit.
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Located near Muizenberg on False Bay, fifteen minutes drive south of Cape Town center. Wetlands with dry, winding paths, lookout towers, bird-viewing huts, a small aquarium and museum. Apparently home to hundreds of bird species, rare plants and hippopotami. Our family was so loud crashing through the paths and up the towers that we saw little wildlife. Still, a beautiful place to visit. Paths are wide enough for strollers. Easy for children to get lost – so keep a close eye on them! Open everyday except Christmas. Entrance fees modest.
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Located in the heart of Cape Town, the planetarium is actually a domed auditorium showing films of interest to kids from preschool to teens. It’s a popular outing for school groups, so it can get crowded. It’s also very dark, so keep close to small children. The films are worth it however – educational and fun, though possibly scary for kids under 3. Good to know: entrance is locked once the show begins, so check your watch before you dash out to the washroom. The planetarium easy to find but parking is limited and surrounding streets are busy and narrow.
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Located next the planetarium. Best known for the whale well – a hanging collection of whale bones – but also has impressive collections of other animals, mostly stuffed, dried, skeletal or fossilized. There’s an activity room which can be explored when not in use by visiting schools. Probably best for kids over 3. Entrance is R15 for adults; free for children under 16.
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Located in a non-obvious spot in Observatory (check their site for directions). The gym allows children 5 years and older to climb on the bouldering walls and the automatic belay wall for R85 a day (includes shoes and harness rentals). Parents need little or no climbing experience – just enthusiasm and vigilance. A great energy outlet for kids and adults. Open most days but only from 11am. Climbers like to sleep late, I guess.
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KIRSTENBOSCH BOTANICAL GARDENS
This is on most tourist itineraries but not an obvious place to take young children. Botanical gardens tend toward dead boring for non-gardeners but Kirstenbosch is an exception. The grounds are spectacular and there’s plenty of free roaming and exploring for kids. Bring a picnic or try one of several restaurants. Our kids love the statues and the streams.
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ICE SKATING @ THE ICE STATION
This place bears NO resemblance to the skating rinks I grew up with. It’s located in the Grandwest Casino (off the N7) and feels like a portal to Las Vegas. Getting to the arena requires walking through the casino and food court – enough to distract any preschooler from their mission. But skating is skating and once you’re on the ice, that ritzy casino feeling vanishes. There’s also a mini rink (located right in the middle of the food court) for kids who can skate on their own. Rentals available and no need to dress for winter – it’s warm. R18-R35 to get in, depending on the time of day and whether you’re renting skates.
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Silvermine is part of Table Mountain National Park. The reserve is quite large, but if you’re headed there with small children, the reservoir is probably your best bet. Follow the signs off Ou Kaapse Weg, pay admission at the toll booth, then continue straight along the paved road until you reach the parking lot. The trail to the reservoir takes only a few minutes and is designed to accommodate wheel chairs – and therefore strollers. The trail around the reservoir takes 20-30 minutes depending on the kids. There are picnic and braai areas along the way and plenty of places for wading into the reservoir. A very beautiful place. Crowded on weekends; and easily enshrouded in cold clouds, so check the weather. Entrance fees are R15 for adults and R5 for kids under 12.
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THE BOOK LOUNGE
This bookstore gets my “kid friendly” award. They have a great selection of kid’s book and readings each Saturday morning at 11. This is one (of very few) bookstores not afraid to get ruffled and scuffed by room full of preschoolers! Located on the corner of Roeland and Buitenkant in City Bowl. Call for events details: +27 21 4622425
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This is on every tourist’s to-do list and is the most popular attraction in Cape Town. It really is spectacular, not just the cable car ride but the mountaintop itself. Panoramic views of the city and surrounding mountains; walking trails, interpretative signs, a gift shop and cafe. All thoughtfully done – not gimmicky. But think twice before bringing toddlers along. The line ups for tickets are likely to be very long, the cable cars crowded and some of the precipices are, well, precipices. Doable with one small child. A bit crazy with multiples.
To come:
STRAWBERRY PICKING
INDOOR PLAYLANDS
